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Post by geneweigel on Apr 25, 2013 10:25:40 GMT -5
It seems that scale doesn't have a lot of fantasy so thats a big hump to get over.
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Post by Scott on Apr 25, 2013 11:14:00 GMT -5
10-12 mm might work too. Warhammer Fantasy uses that scale for Warmaster.
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 25, 2013 11:50:39 GMT -5
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 25, 2013 12:00:20 GMT -5
Kind of steep for those 10mm considering its 5.75 lbs equals $8.88
Thats about $180 for the lot of 10mm fantasy and not a lot of medievalisms going on there.
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Post by Scott on Apr 25, 2013 13:31:02 GMT -5
Yeah, not too much there, and it looks like it's tied to some setting. How big would the Keep be at this scale I wonder, or at the 6 mm scale.
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 25, 2013 16:34:43 GMT -5
Yeah, not too much there, and it looks like it's tied to some setting. How big would the Keep be at this scale I wonder, or at the 6 mm scale. 25 mm into 10 mm the front wall would go from 5.8 feet (5 feet 9 & 11/16ths inches) to 2 feet 3 & 13/16 inches 25 mm into 6 mm the front wall would go from 5.8 feet (5 feet 9 & 11/16ths inches) to 1 foot 4 & 11/16ths inches
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Post by Scott on Apr 26, 2013 7:39:29 GMT -5
i guess it would depend on how much of the surrounding countryside you wanted to include.
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 26, 2013 7:56:18 GMT -5
10mm would seem doable but then when that one battle is done what do you do with the model? Especially if it has foliage.
I did this mountain model for my daughter's geography project and it seemed that the teacher got so revved up they immediately gave the kids another project with more complicated terrain. On the third one a volcano I went spartan because it was too much. Anyway, we've got these two large dioramas downstairs and she feels bad about throwing them in the trash because they were so good but theyre going to have to go. I can just imagine even a two by two feet KEEP ON THE BORDERLANDS being a nightmare to store. I think thats why I can't get into plastic models because I destroyed so many of them with storage.
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Post by GRWelsh on Apr 26, 2013 8:09:44 GMT -5
Those are good points. Ultimately, if it is not reusable, modular and easily stored, it isn't worth making.
In the final analysis, the best thing might be just to focus on floor sections with little props, and an occasional wall to simulate height of the area. Like a square room that only has one wall actually displayed. Such things could be assembled, broke down and reassembled easily as a party moves through a dungeon or other area.
If it is as easy to use as a marker on a mat, and looks better... then why not use it?
I'm still tempted to do a diorama or set piece, just as creative project. With tiny LED lights and the works. Sort of like a Christmas nativity scene, but in my case it would be a demon idol in an evil temple similar to the cover of the 1e PH.
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 26, 2013 9:49:25 GMT -5
All those TSR fold ups from the magazine and modules I had in a box and even they crushed away to nothing.
I also had a plastic imported Himeji castle model* like the quasi-Himeji fold up castle from DRAGON MAGAZINE #121 (MAY 1987) that got crushed and thrown out. They were in the same box with packing newspaper and opened it to a big mess of crushed roofs.
*(I got that in 1983 at Epcot (when Epcot was still Disney Disney) and that was the beginning of a serious pre-Oriental Adventures injection of Oriental elements in play. When OA came out there was this movement to retcon all the ninja shenanigans out. Which was ultimately dumb. I even had an entire town of ninjas! They just vanished away... bring em back, I say!)
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Post by geneweigel on Apr 26, 2013 10:10:05 GMT -5
Those are good points. Ultimately, if it is not reusable, modular and easily stored, it isn't worth making. In the final analysis, the best thing might be just to focus on floor sections with little props, and an occasional wall to simulate height of the area. Like a square room that only has one wall actually displayed. Such things could be assembled, broke down and reassembled easily as a party moves through a dungeon or other area. If it is as easy to use as a marker on a mat, and looks better... then why not use it? I use the mat and a dry erase magnet board as seen on YouTube. Anything mat friendly is automatically a success. Although if I had a pile of Dwarven Forge stuff in my lap I'm sure I could find a way to use it. I saw some at that GYGAX magazine box opening and it had LED light torches so it was extremely atmospheric. My mind sometimes thinks in 25mm about every piece of junk that I see like for instance these things that come in packaging:
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Post by GRWelsh on Nov 12, 2013 12:12:43 GMT -5
I keep coming back to the idea of building the KEEP with Hirst Arts and Merlin's Magic. That would be pretty awesome. In a way it seems like an insane waste of time and money. But you never know. Someone might pay a lot of money for something like that.
The B2 KEEP done to scale, 25mm = 5' fully painted and detachable. The first thing to do would be to plan it out, and figure out how many moulds would be needed. I believe each size tower is covered. The wooden plank mould could be used for a lot of customization. A working drawbridge and portcullis seems to be a must.
If someone else had already built this thing, I'd sure be tempted to buy it!
Is this a crazy idea?
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Post by GRWelsh on Nov 12, 2013 12:25:00 GMT -5
I also think doing the Temple of Elemental Evil, the above-ground portion that is basically a Gothic Cathedral, would be a collector's item if done right.
Hirst Arts has enough Gothic moulds -- I think it could be done.
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Post by Scott on Nov 12, 2013 13:10:56 GMT -5
I've thought many times over the years that both would make great diorama/modeling projects.
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Post by geneweigel on Nov 12, 2013 14:14:08 GMT -5
I recently did a technical diorama not for display but rather to reenact the ancient destruction of the destroyed city that was built then abandoned that I've been mentioning so I could add even more levels to it. When I'm finished I'm going to finalize the model into what the destroyed current version looks like. In regards to TOEE, I think the rooves are confounding and have prevented me from illustrating: FIRST IMPRESSIONS Careful inspection of the structure, including a trek around its exterior, reveals the following. The oddly peaked and gabled roof seems to set the viewer's teeth on edge. The gruesome visages glaring from the walls are everywhere—as projecting ornaments, as supports, in bas-relief, etc. The place is huge. It extends over 450 feet north and south, and is nearly 450 feet across at its widest. The walls rise about 30 feet, supported by arched buttresses and many pilasters. The roof peak is about 20 feet higher than the walls, making the whole edifice no less than 50 feet tall. Only three doors are visible, all at the south end of the Temple. The narrow windows appear to be barred. Oddly peaked is the mystery.
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Post by GRWelsh on Nov 12, 2013 15:24:37 GMT -5
Oddly peaked is the mystery. Maybe that is similar to the way Lovecraft describes some structures as Non-Euclidean, i.e., "the angles just look wrong." If not that, then what could it mean? Stylistically, decoratively, etc. I suppose.
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Post by geneweigel on Nov 12, 2013 15:45:28 GMT -5
I was going to go with a gothic church with a pointy pagoda style but I wasn't sure.
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Post by Scott on Nov 12, 2013 18:32:04 GMT -5
The cover painting isn't oddly peaked enough?
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Post by geneweigel on Nov 12, 2013 19:27:50 GMT -5
I didn't trust Parkinson's illustration skills on other things that he did for RIFTS they were off here and there. Then there is the disconnect feeling regarding Mentzer's input which makes me question Parkinson doubly. Yeah, I don't trust that cover. I think Gygax was describing something more akin to something out of TOMB OF HORRORS.
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Post by GRWelsh on Nov 24, 2014 10:28:35 GMT -5
I've gone a little crazy with these Hirst Arts molds. So has Eric. We've both done a lot of casting, a bit of gluing, and most recently I started painting. I put down a base coat of black, and over that I'm going to dry brush with some cheap acrylic paints. I should be able to put some pictures up soon. I have fieldstone, Gothic, water caverns, inn accessories, and various floor types. Eric and I have been trying to figure out the best base to use, since foam core warps. We're leaning towards masonite but we have to figure out the best way to cut it. One of us may have to buy a new saw for that. Eric is way ahead of me in the castings, and he has huge bins filled with the little bricks. I think he's used up two full 50 lb boxes of the Merlin's Magic, I've only used most of one box. Mark bought a few molds, also, and did some castings, but I think he's lost interest.
I need some projects and inspiration. It's going to be a long winter!
My favorites so far are the floor tiles. I think they're the most useful for gaming. You could do an entire dungeon with just floors, no walls. In fact, that even might be better for gaming, since walls can obstruct the views of the players depending on the angle. The existence of the walls can be implied. So, lots of floor tiles and some props and miniatures might be the way to go -- with an occasional wall or some vertical features to show scale or do something interesting, like an archway, fountain, stairs, ladder, etc.
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